LewisCr125
136 posts
Joined: 13/04/2006 17:03:39
Location: Old Knebworth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
safe/bodged? Opinions please.....
Reply to No. 1. If the rubber seal isn't covering the joint. In time dirt will get in there and muller it. Also it'll fail the MOT.
Posted: May 22, 2006 11:45 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Crankcase breather - do I need one?
Ideally you need both. The gases 'leaking by' will predominantly be in the crankcase during the compression and power strokes as the valves are closed. This means the pressure will be acting on the gearbox-to-block gasket and the oil seals of the primary bearing, timing chain cover and final driveshafts. The only way for it to escape is by blowing out one of these naturally weak points or to vent past the cam followers and into the rocker cover. It may even affect the lubrication of those cam followers creating pockets of gas instead of oil down the sidewalls. If you can, try to fit a crankcase breather and join it with a t-piece to the rocker cover outlet so that the fumes are burnt in the system rather than vented to the atmosphere direct. (taking care not to set the pipework on fire with the exhaust manifold....)
Posted: Mar 26, 2010 05:50 PM
aaron thompson
1 posts
Joined: 09/10/2011 17:46:48
Location: Braintree United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Oil blow out and lack or power
Hi everyone, 1st time on here so here goes, took mini out to a meet last night, all good, on way home running at 70 mph on open road and then started to have lack of power like fuel was running out, slowed down to 30/5 and cleared it, but noticed lack of poet over 3k revs. Got it home at low speed as 1 min away, popped bonet and oil is all over pully fan thermostat underside of car, oil looked ok in rocker cover. I do reg checks on oil valves timing mixture dash pot etc..... Don't know if it's oil seal or head gasket??? How do I start? Many thanks aaron
Posted: Sep 06, 2012 06:53 AM
Tito
18 posts
Joined: 29/10/2004 00:41:00
Location: Barreiro Portugal
flat battery
Its not dificult to change the oil seal, but can be time consuming. 1)Drain the colant, remove the radiator. 2) Remove the starter engine 3) with a open spanner (or something like it ) Lock the flywheel teth. 4) Undo the big bolt on the centre of the crankshaft ( you might need to remove the engine mount ) 5) remove the pulley, should come out by hand. 6) undo all the bolts around the timing chain cover, and remove the cover. 7) Finaly you can replace the oil seal, and fit everything back together, using a new gasket for the timing chain cover ( I use gasket glue as well ) Hope this help Tito Portugal
Posted: Jan 10, 2005 11:09 PM
JK
11 posts
Joined: 15/09/2004 16:53:23
Location: WESTCLIFF ON SEA United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
ENGINE ASSEMBLEY COMPOUND
ANY RECOMENDATIONS ON THE BEST GASKET SEALENT TO USE WHEN REBUILDING MY ENGINE> BLUE IS NON-HARDENING, RED IS HARDENING OR SHOULD I USE SOME ORANGE RTV SEALANT?? IVE ALWAYS HAD LEAKS IN THE PAST FROM THE TIMING COVER END, AND WITH A BELT DRIVE SYSTEM ITS A LITTLE DIFFERENT FROM ANYTHING ELSE. ONCE I PUT THE BLACK HALF MOON SHAPE RUBBER SEAL ON THE WRONG AROUND AND IT WAS ALWAYS DRIBBLING, THEN THE LAST TIME I PUT IT IN THE CORRECT WAY IT STILL LEAKED A LITTLE BIT. ID LIKE TO HEAR YOUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCES, REALLY...
Posted: Jun 11, 2005 06:30 PM
Keith
173 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 07:56:05
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
A-Hem...
On A+ motors for many years valve stem seals were fitted to both inlet AND exhaust valves to help with emissions issues. The seals do not melt on the exhausts. If the oil smoke/blue smoke does not appear at aby other time than start-up, it isnt a huge issue YET. But suggets theres oil leaking past the guides. If theres blue smoke out the exhaust on acceleration - this usually means the piston rings/bores are work out. If theres blue smoke on decceleration, then its likely to be the guides. The problem here is - assessing what the problem is unless you are pretty knowledgeable. Fixing the problem can rapidly escalate in cost. Generally its cheaper to simply go for a reconditioned head - that way all bases are covered if youre not sure what you are looking at. KC.
Posted: Feb 06, 2006 11:16 PM
sheers
2 posts
Joined: 13/11/2005 10:54:21
Location: hereford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
smokey engine
just had head converted to run on unleaded on my 67 998 cooper new valve seats valve guides and stem seals put back together but now the engine smokes very bad, it used to smoke a bit before but i thourght by having the head done it would cure it, also i run the car up the road for about 10 mins and took the rocker cap off and there seems to be a build up mayonnaise in the rocker cover in that short time,all the breather have been cleaned .any thoughts???
Posted: Mar 06, 2006 08:31 PM
jam2004
3 posts
Joined: 12/09/2004 10:14:52
Location: Rotherham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Mini Mayfair 998cc
[i]PLEASE EMAIL OR CALL ME AS I AM NOT ON THIS FORUM MUCH.[/i] Due to a change of job I am now offering my mini up for sale. It has taken me nearly 2 years to complete but has to go. I won’t be leaving the mini scene for long though. So here goes: [b]Interior:[/b] Original rover black paint Charcoal dashboard Mini sport deluxe black carpet set Cobra classic Front Bucket Seats with tailored subframes Cobra classic rear matching seat 10” Mountenoy steering wheel & boss kit Black door cards Chrome door accessories Chrome momo ball gearknob Polished alloy handbrake grip Black gear and handbrake gaiter Chrome rear view mirror Rear shelf black carpet Black rear arch covering Securon front inertia belts Securon rear 3 point static belts Custom boot liner in black Chrome air vent covers Smoked black perspex sunvisors [b]Exterior:[/b] Mini sport 4 pot 7.9 non-vented full disk brake setup 10x5 GB alloys Yokohama A032R aqua tyres Locking wheel nuts Mk1 morris/cooper slat grille Mk1 morris/cooper moustache Halogen headlamp conversion Genuine stainless steel rover bumpers front and rear Group 2 arches Tex stainless wing mirrors Chrome boot hinges Chrome door and boot locks Stainless locking filler cap Aston filler cap Chrome wipers Chrome jet sprays Clear front indicators Clear side indicators Smoked rear lenses Door seals Rear opening window seals Rear windscreen seal Chrome windscreen insert [b]Engine:[/b] Standard manual 998cc with under 32,000 miles (genuine) Mini spares 70A alternator Twin air horns K&N element air filter AAA carb needle Chrome radiator cap [b]ICE & Security[/b]: Toad A51S alarm system including immobiliser 2 pair of JBL 6x9 speakers 6 channel JBL amp mounted in boot Pioneer CD/MP3 headunit 1.2 Farad power capacity Halfords calcium battery Professional cabling throughout [b]Recent Service:[/b] Pair of genuine rover rubber cones on front New rear shoes New front grooved disks New performance front pads Performance HT leads Radiator top hose Oil and filter change Air filter change [b]Here are the pictures... [url]http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=9669921&uid=4614268&members=1[/url][/b] As you can see this mini has been cared for in the best possible way. All the parts above were purchased new and this has cost me far in expense of £6000. The paint is the paint it came with 18/19 years ago when it left the factory and has been cared for all its life. It’s never had a panel changed in its life either. The body is 99.9% rust free apart from a small amount of surface rust on the gutter about the size of a 50 pence piece. It is MOTed until Feb/March 2007 and taxed until August/September 2006. Insurance is cheap aswell… cost me £495 for a year 3rd party (fire & theft) in my first year of motoring with no no-claims bonus aged 18. I would prefer to sell this car whole at a price of £3,500 but I will also sell it for £3,000 with out the audio, which I feel is a fair price for all the time and money spent. ------------------------------ Contact details removed ------------------------------ Thanks for your time, Jam2004 (Tom).
Posted: Apr 06, 2006 02:45 PM
Roobz
223 posts
Joined: 15/12/2005 01:31:36
Location: Redbridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Head gasket leak?
i "think" on that side of the cylinder head theres a tiny little rivet looking thing on the underside behind the thermostat housing and near the water bypass hose. its basicaly where they cast the head, the oil ways had to be cleared out so there was a little hole left, that they filled with this rivet.. they can sometimes but VERY rairly leak.
also worth checking is the rocket cover gasket (these things are crap on all older cars) and the timing chain cover gasket..aswell as the tappet inspection covers on the back of the block behind the exhaust downpipe. as the rubber gaskets in these go hard with age and dont seal.. so leak oil. Heres a pic of that little rivet im on about.
Posted: Dec 14, 2007 10:56 PM
Gaz
50 posts
Joined: 16/02/2006 16:06:42
Location: albrighton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
my wipers dont park
hello mate, only later wipers park themselves i'm sure, i've got a 1972 morris 1000 and mine don't...there is a nack to stopping them at just the right time though!!
As for the fuel sender i don't think there's any need for sealant...minimag covered it in detail in their june 2008 edition if you can get your hands on a back copy. Just make sure the sealing faces are clean and dry and the rubber seal should be sufficient
Posted: Nov 07, 2008 06:52 PM
well
check the engine breather pipe from the rocker cover. it will be split near the carburettor end. It's letting the mixture get to weak when throttling back. If it's not that then check that the air filter is seated properly and that you haven't got a split seal where it seats or a faulty gasket between the carb and the manifold.
Posted: Apr 27, 2010 01:39 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Reconditioned engine or stay with old one ?
Frankly, transplanting a totally different engine is likely to prove more unreliable in the long run, and reduce the value/collectability of the car as well.
Problems with wet weather are well known, and it's really a question of replacing all the suspect parts and keeping the electrics clean and dry. If the timing is slipping, then there must be a reason! Assuming the distributor itself isn't rotating, there may be a problem with the vacuum advance, or the weights inside the body. They're simple enough to work on, so take it apart and have a look.
As for the slight oil leak - most people learn to live with it until it becomes embarassing. Most likely culprit is either the oil seal where the crankshaft pulley emerges from the timing cover, or the oilseals where the driveshafts exit the gearbox. Both are relaltively easy to change. It should be possible to see where, although you may have to give the engine a good clean first, take it for a good run, and then have another look.
Posted: Jun 22, 2006 09:25 PM
Cluch Judder
Hi Paul,
I have the same issue with a '69 850. It was rebuilt with all new mounts but I never dropped the clutch out (hindsight is a great thing). The slave and master cylinder were rebuilt, the clutch arm pivot was greased and the throw-out adjuster setup with feeler gauges.
I too have an intermittent judder. If I increase the revs it is less noticeable most of the time but occassionally it shakes the odd vertebrae loose no matter what I do. I do get a lot of black dust on the starter motor spindle which suggests the driven plate may be wearing heavily as it wasn't used for 15 years - either that or it is gradually wearing off years of rust and moisture contamination. It doesn't slip and passes the handbrake test for clutch wear.
Oil leaks for the primary gear seal will eventually result in a leak from the drain hole in the clutch cover. look for the split pin hanging out of the hole and see if its weeping.
Keep us updated if you manage to solve it.
Posted: Nov 01, 2010 01:23 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Well their supposed to as I'm pretty sure Minis got self parking wipers from the MKII Mini onwards. So that's 1967 onwards.
Posted: Nov 07, 2008 09:52 PM
jr
5 posts
Joined: 18/06/2007 09:42:42
Location: Ashford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
Thanks for reply, yes it's an A-series, not sure what you mean by breathers in sump. Do you mean from the tappet covers as that the only breather l do not have as my block does not have them. Should also mention there is a breather from the timing cover on top of a large one from the rocker and transfer gear housing.
Guess l will find out this weekend if putting in minimum oil does the trick.
J.
Posted: Jan 28, 2009 07:34 PM
nick
13 posts
Joined: 31/01/2005 11:18:39
Location: Otley United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi Fonts of Knowledge.
I'm building up a 1300 engine to fit into a mini clubby but the timing chain cover doesn't have a breather on it and as the block has solid tappet covers there's no breather outlet there either. Should I find myself a timing chain cover with a breather and fit that?
I'm assuming there should be some sort of breather fitted to prevent oil being blown out the dipstick tube or via crank and pulley seals.
Cheers nick
Posted: Mar 26, 2010 10:44 AM
radiator overflow pipe leaking coolant
Hi,
The GRC207 was for a rad fitted with an expansion tank. If you don't have this expansion unit then it will blow the hoses or pump seals.
On the original rads there is a plate to protect the bottom of the rad cap and gives a level. This is just above the top of the fins. If you overfill the header tank on the rad then once it is opened by the pressure it can act like a syphon until the level drops to something more comfortable.
Providing your water level is always covering the fins then you shouldn't have a problem. It is likely that this is where your engine is most comfortable at.
Warning note: If the water pump was changed at the same time as the radiator and you fitted one with the pressed steel impellor rather than the cast one then it could be that you have very little blade left and therefore it isn't working efficiently. This could cause an increase in rad pressure and blow more water out than usual. It's worth keeping an eye on but unless you know what water pump it is you may have to strip the rad, alternator and pump to check it.
Posted: Nov 27, 2013 09:43 AM
paslow22
24 posts
Joined: 03/12/2012 07:18:14
Location: Hamlyn Terrace NSW Australia
Changing timing chain in car
Hi.
1998 Rover 1275 x japan now residing in Aystralia
I am about to change my timing cover seal also changing my simplex chain to a duplex chain and fitting a new water pump while I'm at it.
What I would like to know are the difficulties with doing it in the car.
Any information would be helpful.
Thanks
Darryl
Posted: Sep 23, 2014 10:44 AM
Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
timing chain
Yes.
Set No.1 piston to TDC.
Remove radiator (if side mounted) then fan belt, lower pulley and timing gear cover.
Now you can remove timing chain and gears and replace chain.
When refitting cover, put on loosely, fit pulley then tighten cover screws (this helps centre timing seal to pulley and reduce likelyhood of leaks.
Posted: Nov 13, 2011 11:16 AM
ezekied
Joined: 02/01/2006 20:03:54
Location: Bristol United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Oil leak through primary gear?
Oil leaking from bottom of clutch cover - replaced cltch and orange oil seal.
Oil continued to leak - replaced new primary gear and new orange oil seal.
Oil continued to leak - stripped it down again. Orange oil seal lovely and dry.
Must be coming through primary gear??
HELP
PS primary gear end float is spot on - took a lot of time to amke sure it was ok
Posted: Apr 19, 2010 11:08 AM